Lake Geneva, Wisconsin It's Always Been The Place

Lake Geneva, Wisconsin It’s Always Been The Place

By Michael C. Upton
Arts & Leisure Writer

In 1871, as the Great Chicago Fire destroyed roughly 3.3 square miles of the fifth largest city in the US, millionaires and the social elite sought refuge on the shores of Geneva Lake. A gilded age resort town arose with the extravagant homes of the Wrigley, Schwinn, and Maytag families dotting the shoreline. Seventy-five miles northwest of Chicago, just over the Wisconsin-Illinois line, the City of Lake Geneva blossomed on the lands once inhabited by the Potawatomi tribe and remains one of the Midwest’s most popular resort destinations.

I spent an extended weekend here, walking part of the 21-mile Shore Path, boating in a most peculiar fashion, and discovering many of the area’s gems as part of a small group tour. Our afternoons leaned into indulgence—spa robes and golf greens, long lunches downtown, and boutique browsing along Main Street. 

MAIL BY BOAT

The drizzly morning was overcast, but “neither snow nor rain” can keep the mailman from his or her appointed rounds. One of the best ways to get a glimpse of the lakeside mansions giving Lake Geneva the nickname “Newport of the West” is by mail boat. Many of the lakeside homes are only accessible by water, so couriers leap from passing boats on to docks delivering mail at full sprint only to jump back aboard just as the boat is about to pass. I watched this entertaining feat from the upper deck aboard the Walworth II. Part of the Lake Geneva Cruise Line fleet, boats like this have delivered mail here for over 100 years. The tour company also offers historic tours and family friendly ice cream socials

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We followed up the morning on the water with lunch at Pier 290, a marine inspired, family run restaurant where locals gather for lakeview dining. Owner Bill Gage, the third-generation steward of Gage Marine, realized the area needed a neighborhood friendly restaurant and added Pier 290 to the many lake centric services the 150-year-old company provides.

RESORTS

Visitors to Lake Geneva can enjoy lakeside stays at one of several resorts, which once attracted stars of the big band era and today cater to relaxation, service, and accessibility. The 334-guest room Abbey Resort is situated on ninety acres and allowed me to enjoy a morning view of the water from my personal front porch. The resort features an 18-hole championship golf course, seasonal skiing, and horseback riding.

Friends in my group stayed at Lake Lawn Resort, which is situated on the shores of Delavan Lake. Lake Lawn opened in 1878 when Anna Mary Phillips transformed her family farm into a guesthouse, and in 1883 added 50 rooms to accommodate demand. Newly refurbished and modernized, this resort is poised to run for another 140+ years.

In 1968, Hugh Hefner set up the Lake Geneva Playboy Club a few miles outside of town. Now known as the Grand Geneva Resort & Spa, the Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired hotel features opulent design and so many amenities—including three golf courses, an indoor waterpark, four restaurants, ball sports facilities, bowling and arcade, and a spa and salon—guests may never want to leave. 

OFF THE WATER

Once we had our fill of water activities, we discovered how much there is to do in Downtown Lake Geneva and the surrounding area. We started the day with a trip to the Lake Geneva Farmers Market, exploring crafts, art, and fresh produce and foods. Some of that fresh produce followed us to the Lake Geneva School of Cooking where Chef John Bogan led our group through a three-course lunch (I made the mushroom bisque served in Wisconsin cheese “baskets”)

. Outgrowing its humble beginnings, the school quickly became one of the area’s most popular attractions and offers traditional classes, wine dinners, and special events like the annual Geneva Lakes Burger Throw Down held each May.

We ventured to nearby Williams Bay and were wowed by the Yerkes Observatory. Built in 1897, this stunningly beautiful landmark is home to the world’s largest refracting telescope, and visitors walk in the footsteps of Noble Prize winners and scientific luminaries like Albert Einstein. Tours touch on astronomy, architecture, and the human stories of this cosmic castle.

With our mystification not fully satisfied we spent the evening at the Tristan Crist Magic Theatre. I caught myself literally exclaiming aloud in amazement as the Vegas-style showman pulled off staggering displays of illusion.

FUN FACT: Lake Geneva is the home of Gary Gygax, co-creator of Dungeons & Dragons role playing game. Some shops have fun game-inspired gifts, and keep an eye out for themed murals.

The biggest takeaway from my visit to Lake Geneva is how it has something for everyone. More than just a cliché, game geeks mingle with foodies at an array of eateries (I recommend checking out 1878 on the Lake and Lake City Social), wedding parties celebrate with outdoor adventurers, and young and old all have smiles on their faces in this gem of the Midwest.

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