Extended Weekend Getaways 
By Kristy Christiansen
Freelance Travel Writer
At first glance, the whimsical paintings of Walter Anderson present a colorful exploration of the natural world along the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Turtles, awash in purple and yellow hues, crawl across the ground, stylistic pelicans take flight, and a watchful owl eyes a flying squirrel launching into the air. Drawn by his vivid depictions of the land he loved, my family and I headed to Anderson’s hometown of Ocean Springs, Mississippi, to discover the delights of this artistic, coastal retreat.
Where Art Is Fueled By Nature
Through the shade of the outstretched arms of a live oak tree, we crossed the threshold into the artist’s imagination at the Walter Anderson Museum of Art. The museum features a wealth of his work, from early creations to the Ocean Springs Community Center murals, a 3,000-square-foot depiction of the town’s history and flora and fauna through the seasons. The vibrant masterpiece took Anderson 16 months to complete, for the bargain price of $1.00.
A reclusive painter who struggled with mental illness, Anderson was known to row his small boat 12 miles off the coast to Horn Island, where he would stay in isolation for weeks at a time painting his beloved nature. The museum displays both his rowboat and his handy bicycle, which he pedaled on multiple, thousand-mile adventures. When Anderson was back at home with his family, he would lock himself inside his “Little Room,” a private interior space never seen by others until after his death in 1965. Today, the Little Room is a highlight of the museum, a stunning exhibition of years of overlapping paintings coating the four walls and ceiling.
Walter’s brother, Peter, started Shearwater Pottery in 1928, and both Walter and their third brother, Mac, worked there. The pottery venture still thrives, with the next generation of Andersons carrying on the tradition. We ventured out to the showroom, past the scenic harbor, to view the vases and teacups and fairytale figurines for sale. The family also owns Realizations, a shop selling silk-screened prints, clothing and textiles featuring Walter’s unique block print designs. After walking up and down Washington Avenue, we quickly realized creativity runs rampant in this town and is seen throughout the various boutiques, such as The Pink Rooster / Gallery Garbo, Palmette, Love, ivy, Ocean Springs Mercantile, Two Dogs Dancing, and Miner’s Doll and Toy Store.
To experience the draw of Horn Island firsthand, you would need a private boat or charter. The undeveloped barrier island is part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, which luckily presents a mainland alternative to discover the beauty of this coastal area at its Davis Bayou area. We also drove down to Front Beach Drive, parking at Fort Maurepas City Park and walking barefoot across the expanse of beach, watching the pelicans skim across the glistening water.
Sleep Where the Legends Stayed
We laid our heads in the comfortable beds at Gulf Hills Hotel & Resort along the picturesque banks of Old Fort Bayou. Dating back to 1927, the historic resort became Mississippi’s first working dude ranch in 1950, and only a year later, the King of Rock ‘N’ Roll, Elvis Presley, began vacationing here. Black and white photos depict Presley water skiing and spending his evenings playing the piano with friends. In 2021, new ownership began transforming the waterfront hotel into a modern-day resort. Guests can visit the Sunset Lounge for an eclectic cocktail menu, relax by the pool or, as my boys are always apt to do, bring a fishing pole and cast a line in the calm waters out back.
The Art of Food
A small town with a big city presence, Ocean Springs boasts more than 100 restaurants and nightlife venues. We did our fair share of sampling, starting with Friday night dinner at the local gem, Maison de Lu. Following our waiter’s suggestion, we started with the fried crab claw appetizers, whetting the palette before moving on to salmon with goat cheese polenta, twice baked cauliflower and a divine lemon icebox pie.
Saturday morning kicked off with a classic Southern breakfast at Buzzy’s Breakfast Downtown on Desoto Street. Housed in an adorable cottage, the café offers a covered front porch for al fresco dining on a mild spring morning. Intrigued by the long line of customers piling up outside the door to Bright Eyed Brew Co., we jumped in queue and soon left with a nitrogen-infused, slow-steeped, cold coffee to fuel our morning shopping spree. We also couldn’t resist a late-morning treat from the popular Tatonut Donut Shop.
For lunch, we nabbed two shareable platters of smoked tuna dip and crackers from The Traveler, the Walter Anderson Museum café and coffee shop. The venue features almost nightly events, from flower arranging classes to artist exhibitions. We were lucky enough to be in town for a Sip & Paint workshop, where we tested our own artistic skills.
Date-night dinner meant the boys spent the evening lounging in their hotel room with a gourmet creation from Tom’s Extreme Pizzeria while my husband and I braved the sudden downpour for an outing to 701 Croft. Perched on a stool at the bar, we gorged on truffle fries, spinach and goat cheese pizza and specialty cocktails.
Before bidding the town adieu, we tried one last meal Sunday morning at The Lady May, where weekend brunch covered everything from a waffle board and crawfish Biscuit Monica to a Mississippi Slug burger and a Bloody Mary bar. With an outdoor patio featuring a flaming fountain and a market filled with tallow skincare products, it was the perfect ending to our weekend adventure.
Plan your own trip to Ocean Springs by visiting Play Coastal Mississippi.
